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There’s something feverishly romantic about the Caribbean. Maybe it’s the allure of the sapphire waters, or the coastal breeze in your partner’s hair at dusk. It could be that stroll, fingers locked, through the streets of an old Spanish port city, or perhaps the aphrodisiacal effect of one seafood dish after another. Whatever it is, Cartagena’s got it, and in abundance.
Visits to island beaches are a short and inexpensive boat ride away. The culinary scene is excellent and getting better. And its famed nightlife revolves around upbeat merengue, African-rooted champeta, and of course, salsa.
I’ve been to the city many times on couples trips with my wife. When we started visiting in 2014, we couldn’t believe more people didn’t know about it, but the growing number of airlines operating routes to the city suggests tourists are beginning to catch on. No longer a secret, Cartagena is in contention for the most romantic destination in the Caribbean.
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Colombia has seen a steady rise in tourism in recent years, particularly in Cartagena. International visits to the city grew by 52% in 2024 compared to 2022. It’s not surprising. The historic center is one of the best-preserved in Latin America. There are more things to do in Cartagena than can be done in the time allowed on most vacations. Here are our favorite romantic things to do in Cartagena.
Historic Center
By far the most charming part of the city is its historic center. Often referred to as the walled city, the narrow streets are lined with Spanish colonial cathedrals, plazas, and old homes painted in a patchwork of color with wooden trim around windows and balconies.
Pausing our bike ride to take in the timeless architecture. Photo by Trey Erwin.
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Colonial Architecture
The Spanish founded Cartagena in the 1500s, and in the historic center, viceroys and aristocrats constructed homes of stone with tiled central courtyards. They also erected cathedrals, such as the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the city’s oldest, and the iconic Catedral de Catalina, which will always require just one more photo. The clock tower at the western entrance to the walled city is another marvel of the colonial builders.
A rare empty street with the lovely Santa Catalina Cathedral at the end. Photo by Trey Erwin.
Republican Architecture
After Simon Bolivar liberated Colombia from Spanish rule in the 19th century, the city changed in many ways, including its architecture. The city’s elites began building larger mansions outside of the walled city. The expanding neighborhoods, such as Manga, afforded more space.
Perennial examples of these spacious homes are the Casa Velez Pombo, now a school, and the lavish Casa Covo.
Like its colonial predecessor, republican architecture featured ample balconies. To distinguish them from the colonial balconies, look at the corner of their tiled roofs. Those built in the republican era ended with pointed tiles on both sides.
See the pointy edges? No witches here! Photo by Trey Erwin.
The Fort Wall
The most impressive and famous piece of architecture is, of course, the fort wall itself. Made to fortify the city from pirate attacks and rival colonial powers, the wall stands 12 meters high, 15-20 meters thick, and surrounds the historic center. The best time to visit is sundown.
No better place to catch a Caribbean sunset. Photo by Trey Erwin.
A romantic way to explore the histroric center is with a private walking tour!
Best Places To Eat In Cartagena
Colombian cuisine stands out for the freshness of its local ingredients, and many of the country’s best restaurants are found in Cartagena. My wife and I have shared some unforgettable meals here, rich in flavor and romantic ambiance.
Buena Vida Marisquería
Dining in Cartagena is all about the seafood, and no place does it better than Buena Vida. It’s tough to pick our favorite between their fresh local catches, calamari, octopus, muscles, fried crab, and so much more, but the good news is there are no wrong options.
Always get the rooftop table. Photo by Trey Erwin.
La Cevichería
Ceviche is commonly known as a Peruvian dish, but Colombians are equally proud of theirs. The best ceviche we’ve found is at La Cevichería, but don’t take our word for it. Anthony Bourdain also dined here and gave it glowing praise. The experts in the kitchen serve up classic and creative varieties of ceviche, all wonderful.
Best seats in the house are actually outside the house. Photo by Trey Erwin.
San Valentin
Probably the best balance of value, flavor, and atmosphere in town. San Valentin serves coastal dishes prepared the traditional way in a beautifully renovated colonial building. The cazuela de mariscos, a creamy seafood stew, has our highest recommendation. Pair it with a natural fruit juice. We’re partial to the mango, passion fruit, lulo, or guanabana.
Street Food
Romance isn’t all clams and pinot on a while tablecloth. It invites a measure of exploration, and adventurous eating is part of the fun. Good thing Cartagena boasts many delicious street foods. The corn-based arepa is king in Colombia, and you can find a vendor selling them on just about any corner. Wander into the square of Getsemaní, a bohemian neighborhood just outside the wall, and you can find all sorts of stands and carts selling local specialties like the salchipapas (Colombia’s take on loaded fries), the infallible chuzo desgranado, and hot dogs topped with crunchy fried hashbrowns and pineapple sauce.
Looking for a refreshing reprieve from the Caribbean heat and humidity? Find the coconut cart and watch as the vendor makes a series of precise chops with his machete.
Find more delicasies with a street food tour where locals take you to their favorite spots.
Best Drinks & Nightlife In Cartagena
Talented musicians, Latin dancing, and tropical mixology—Cartagena’s nightlife is as exciting as it is plentiful. In fact, it can be overwhelming choosing between the excellent venues to spend a night out. After extensive sampling, here are our top recommendations.
Order something with a fruit you can’t pronounce. Photo by Kobby Mendez on Unsplash
Alquimico
Kick off the night with mixed drinks at Alquimico, the city’s most esteemed speakeasy, housed in a three-story mansion in the walled city. The cocktails are original creations, a mix of regional spirits, exotic fruits, and herbs, many of which are only found in Colombia.
My wife and I started on the dark and moody first floor, where I ordered a guayaba agria, which impressed me with its complex yet balanced flavors. Then we ascended to the rooftop, where I asked the bartender to prepare me something with one of my favorite rums, Flor de Caña. I’m not exaggerating when I say these were the two best drinks I’ve had in South America (my apologies to the formidable Brazilian caipirinha).
Café Havana
Colombia has produced many talented salsa musicians, but none as famous or beloved as Cartagena’s own Joe Arroyo. Salsa is a way of life here, and Café Havana is where couples go to flaunt their “sabor”—the preferred Colombian term for dancing prowess—while the brass and congas of the live band fill the room.
This is what “sabor” looks like. Photo by Omar Lopez on Unsplash
Bazurto Social Club
The Bazurto Social Club showcases champeta, an Afro-Colombian style of music that originated in Cartagena. It’s fast, loud, upbeat, and never fails to get me on my feet. You can dance it with your partner or solo, but leave your drink on the table. This music is what Colombians call movida—lots of movement! Smile, let loose, and take your place among the crowd on the dance floor.
Donde Fidel
Donde Fide Salsa Bar is a laid-back outdoor spot nestled in a corner of the wall where the horse-drawn carriages ride by now and then. Salsa music plays from the old-fashioned tavern inside, so step inside and have a dance if inclined, or stay outside basking in the Spanish architecture glowing from the warm light of the lanterns. This is where we go for a calmer night to make conversation over sips of cold beer (or if our hips gave out at Bazurto!).
Best Beaches In Cartagena
Given its tropical climate, it’s beach season year-round in Cartagena. The best beaches and lounges are a short boat ride from the main harbor or at the end of the Bocagrande peninsula. There are many private and tour boats for hire at great prices.
Tierra Bomba
Leaving from Bocagrande’s western shore, it takes just ten minutes to cross the bay to the turquoise shallows of Tierra Bomba. Take your pick of palmed lounges with full bars, canopied beds, and paddleboard rentals. We went with Mariana’s Beach Club, and they treated us right the whole day.
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Barú
About twenty miles away from the historic center lie the white shores of Barú, accessible by boat or bus. Spend the day lying out on one of the comfy beds at Nena Beach Club and wading into the blue sea. This is a great place to try a classic coastal dish: pan-fried mojarra (seabream), coconut rice, avocado salad, and fried plantains.
Islas de Rosario
Islas de Rosario are the best islands for snorkeling. The waters are crystal clear, and I’m always amazed at the variety of colorful fish that come to feed at the small reefs. Just beware of stepping on the sea-urchins!
There are luxury hotels and spas throughout the archipelago where you can stay overnight, but we prefer to make this a day trip by hiring a boat from the harbor. Rent a Balinese bed and cogela suave (take it easy) at the tranquil Pa’ue Beach Lounge.
Boat tours to Islas de Rosario include stops at the best snorkel spots, lunch, and expert guides.
Cholón
One of our all-time favorite experiences in Cartagena was chartering a boat to hop around the small islands of Cholón. Admittedly, we went with a group of friends, but it easily could have been a couple’s excursion. We anchored off the pristine beaches of each island and dove in for a swim. Meanwhile, the boat crew served up lunch and drinks.
Can we cancel our flight home? Photo by Trey Erwin.
When You Go
Getting To Cartagena From Los Angeles
There are no non-stop routes from Los Angeles (LAX) to Cartagena’s Rafael Núñez International Airport (CTG), but ones with layovers are offered by several airlines, including JetBlue, Copa, Avianca, American, Delta, and Spirit. Overall travel time is between eight and twelve hours.
An excellent discount site for rental cars and flights is Booking! We literally save hundreds using it.
Where to Stay In Cartagena
Hotel Estelar Playa Manzanillo
For maximum comfort, I highly recommend the Hotel Estelar Playa Manzanillo. The service is professional, the staff multi-lingual, the location excellent, all at a fair price. It’s everything you’d want in a hotel. We stayed here to kick off our honeymoon and enjoyed every minute of our stay. Our suite on the seventeenth floor had spectacular views of the shimmering sea and walled city, but the best vista of all is at the Sky Bar on the top floor, the highest in the country. Relax in the infinity pool or book a session in the full-service spa. And if you’re a breakfast snob like me, don’t miss their buffet with an ample spread of local and international staples.
I was a bit distracted as we were checking in. Photo by Trey Erwin.
Casa San Agustin
To really turn up the romance, reserve a boutique hotel in the historic center, and none rivals the elegance of the Casa San Agustin. Once an 18th-century home, it’s been converted into what many consider Cartagena’s top luxury boutique hotel. High-ceiling rooms from the republican era, the acclaimed Alma restaurant, tea in the sunlit library—every detail has been painstakingly designed for pleasure and ambiance. Did I mention the pool in the shaded central courtyard below the city’s old aqueduct? This hotel sets the bar in Caribbean hospitality and aesthetics.
Could it get any more serene? Photo by The Classic Safari Company.
Private Residences
There are a number of private residences for rent at various price points to fit any budget. I’ve had success with VRBOs in the city’s newer Bocagrande neighborhood, loved by beach-goers. It’s safe and clean, with supermarkets and ATMs all around for convenience.
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